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Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

Rolex is one of the most iconic luxury watch brands in the world. Here, we look closer at the processes behind creating Rolex timepieces to demystify their premium prices.

Rolex watches are more than tools for telling time. They’re also some of the most covetable luxury accessories today, next to jewelry and handbags. Since its establishment in 1905, the Swiss watch brand has cultivated an esteemed reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and innovation, cementing its place as one of the most iconic watch brands in the world. Rolex offers models that command tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars, from sports watches to timepieces with complications, such as luxury chronograph watches, and stunning gem-set watches with dazzling diamonds and gemstones. In this article, we address the many factors that make Rolex watches so expensive to help explain their high prices. 

Of course, it’s worthwhile to note that the most expensive Rolex watches typically have important provenances, or previous owners. Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona (ref. 6239), for instance, fetched a shocking $17.75 million at a Phillips auction in New York in October 2017. The famous actor helped popularize the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, and this model belonged to him personally. Therefore, the winning bidder paid a premium for an invaluable piece of Paul Newman’s history. (Interested in rare vintage Rolex watches? Check out our guide on how to buy a watch at auction.) While provenance certainly plays a role in price, many other factors help answer the question “Why is Rolex so expensive?” 

Interested in learning what makes luxury watches costly, in general? Read our deep dive into why watches are so expensive.

In This Article:

  • Brand Prestige
  • Precious Materials
  • In-House Production
  • Research and Testing
  • Mechanization
  • Skilled Craftsmanship
  • Expert Gemologists
  • Resale Markup
  • Marketing
  • Philanthropy

Why Is Rolex So Expensive?

Brand Prestige

Rolex headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland. ROLEX/NICOLAS SCHOPFER

Brand prestige is usually the first reason that comes to mind to explain the cost of Rolex watches. While this may appear superficial initially, one must acknowledge that luxury brands such as Rolex had to earn their status over decades, if not centuries. The Rolex brand, in particular, has accomplished this feat through innovative pieces it produces under the highest quality-control standards. Therefore, when you purchase a Rolex watch, you can rest assured that its features will last for decades. Another aspect of the brand’s prestige relates to its iconic models, such as the Rolex Submariner, Datejust, GMT-Master, and Daytona. These watches are easily recognizable for their unique features and timeless designs and continue to reign as the most popular Rolex watches. 

Precious Materials

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and 18K yellow gold with a Cerachrom bezel.ROLEX/JVA STUDIOS

Another more obvious factor behind the value of Rolex watches is their precious materials. The brand’s luxury timepieces are made of platinum or white, rose, or yellow gold, which are higher quality and more durable than less costly materials such as plastic. The brand also incorporates gemstones into many of its timepieces, increasing their value exponentially (read more about gem-set watches in this section). Beyond precious metals and gemstones, Rolex uses innovative materials such as Cerachrom, a ceramic bezel material that’s scratchproof and fade-resistant. Even the type of stainless steel it uses, 904L stainless steel, is more luxurious than standard stainless steel. This material is more expensive and requires highly skilled professionals and advanced equipment, as its high density makes it challenging to work with. 

Of course, Rolex invests millions of dollars into sourcing gemstones and manufacturing precious metals as a brand that produces most of its components in-house (which we discuss more in the next section). This adds a considerable premium to its watches. 

In-House Production

Rolex manufactures its gold alloys in its foundry.ROLEX/PASCAL DEBRUNNER

By producing the bulk of its components itself, Rolex is able to enforce strict quality control measures. Rolex applies its dedication to in-house manufacturing to all aspects of its watchmaking. It even owns and operates a foundry in Switzerland where it produces gold and steel alloys, including proprietary metals such as Oystersteel and Everose Gold. Rolex also designs and manufactures its screws, which is very uncommon in the watch industry. This independent approach comes at the high price of hiring and training scores of staff, not to mention buying and maintaining expensive equipment. While many luxury watch brands produce nearly all their parts, many purchase their screws and sapphire glass, and they don’t have foundries.

Research and Testing

Rolex uses hyperbaric tanks to test the waterproofness of its watches.ROLEX/JURIAAN BOOIJ

Perhaps the most important and commonly overlooked reason behind a Rolex watch’s premium price is the research and development that goes into making it. Every year, Rolex invests millions of dollars into refining its models, making them more accurate and durable. It’s considered a master in dive watches, for instance, because of the testing it conducts to ensure they meet the highest water-resistance standards. These tests include submerging dive watches in high-pressure water tanks and again in a body of water. The result is three top-notch diver’s collections — the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Deepsea — which are impervious to water under the most extreme conditions. Another noteworthy waterproof timepiece from Rolex is the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, released in 2022; it was inspired by an archival model that filmmaker and deep-sea explorer James Cameron wore while on a quest in the western Pacific Ocean in 2012. This watch is capable of 36,090-foot water submersion, an extraordinary feat. In order for the brand to stay at the top, it must constantly work on improving the performance of its luxury watches, which comes at a considerable expense.     

Mechanization 

A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II during the testing stage.ROLEX/JURIAAN BOOIJ

All Rolex movements and complications are assembled by hand, although the company does use robots to perform other tasks such as sorting and taking stock of inventory. Additionally, Rolex incorporates robots it designs into the shock testing of its watches. First, the robot subjects a timepiece to sharp movements at inhuman speeds. Then, researchers evaluate whether the watch’s performance is intact in an effort to understand how to improve it. The brand’s integration of high-tech machines into its different processes demonstrates the amount of effort and capital it invests into constantly streamlining them. 

Skilled Craftsmanship

Watchmakers at a Rolex World Service workshop.ROLEX

Creating a luxury timepiece requires skilled craftspeople at every step, from making the components to assembling the final watch movement. Dozens of people are involved in the creation of a single watch, and each is highly trained. To ensure it has enough trained staff, Rolex created the Rolex Training Centre in Geneva. Watchmakers working at Rolex-certified service centers worldwide are also trained in this facility. The cost of training for each of its watchmakers adds up, contributing to the high price of its watches.

Rolex exceeds industry standards for accuracy and craftsmanship in several ways. For example, every single Rolex watch is a certified chronometer, which is the most precise type of watch that exists. The brand tests each watch twice to meet its standards, then sends it to a Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) laboratory for independent certification. Rolex even has its own standard for chronometers and calls its watches “superlative chronometers.” 

Expert Gemologists 

A gemologist setting diamonds into an 18K yellow gold President bracelet.ROLEX/ULYSSE FRECHELIN

A team of expert gemologists at Rolex helps create its gem-set watches, from sourcing first-rate diamonds and colorful gemstones to skillfully setting them into timepieces. These gemstones are expensive and, therefore, significantly raise the price of jewelry watches. Rolex gemologists use various techniques to breathe life into watch dials, bezels, cases, and bracelets, such as pairing different settings and creating decorative motifs. Therefore, in addition to the cost of precious gemstones used, you’re paying for the exceptional craftsmanship that went into these masterpieces. 

Resale Markup

Rolex watches that are rare or have important provenances fetch bids several times higher than retail prices.PHILLIPS
 

Like most luxury watch brands, Rolex has a long waiting list for covetable models because their demand far outweighs their supply. As such, plenty of watch collectors buy pre-owned Rolex watches from reputable watch resellers and retailers such as Watchfinder & Co.Watches of Switzerland, and The 1916 Company. If you’re specifically interested in buying or selling pre-owned Rolexes, the brand has a program that certifies and sells pre-owned Rolex timepieces. These timepieces can command higher prices than noncertified watches. Buying a Rolex watch this way means you don’t have to wait on standby for the model you want, but you might need to pay significantly more than the retail price. The exact amount depends on the market prices, determined by the Rolex model, condition, and availability.

Marketing

Coco Gauff sporting a Rolex while holding the 2024 WTA Finals trophy.ROLEX/JON BUCKLE

In addition to traditional marketing strategies such as print and digital ads, Rolex invests heavily in celebrity, athlete, and sporting event sponsorships. For instance, Rolex has been the official timekeeper of the U.S. Open, an annual tennis tournament, since 1980. Currently, its most significant athlete partnerships include Tiger Woods and Roger Federer. Rolex is also known for sponsoring the Oscars since 2017. 

Philanthropy

Rolex’s Mission Blue Initiative helps protect endangered marine life.ROLEX/NUNO SÁ

Rolex makes significant donations to support ocean conservation, wilderness protection, and environment preservation through its Perpetual Planet Initiative. In partnership with National Geographic, it launched this philanthropic project in 2019; since then, it has offered numerous grants and scholarships to organizations and individuals who raise environmental awareness and demonstrate conservationist efforts. Rolex is also committed to nurturing young artists through the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative, matching them with world-renowned professionals in their field of interest, whether dance, film, or literature.