Unsurprisingly the Patek Philippe Cubitus made the cut, but what else did?
It wouldn’t be the end of the year without a bit of reflecting and a best-of retrospective. 2024 was particularly exciting for watches: more people than ever seem to be into watches now, and we were treated to new drops pretty much every single week. “2024 was an incredible year for horology,” says J.J. Owens, founder of Daily Grail. “The mini Oaks, the many vintage revivals, and the eye-watering stone dials…it was a never-ending candy store of clocks.”
And if 2023 was the year of fun watches, what is 2024? We saw a return to the vintage look, mechanical movements, a greater focus on craftsmanship and attention to detail, with timepieces appealing to both the new generation of watch enthusiasts and veteran collectors.
We also saw the much-hyped launched of the Patek Philippe Cubitus, complete with ‘is it real?’ leaks, that sent the internet into a proper frenzy (“It made waves in the watch world,” says Mike Wüthrich from @wanderingwatches. “Any publicity is good publicity”), but also subtly updated grails like the Lange 1.
We asked the watch community to give us their most influential watch of 2024 — just one, which seemed like an impossible task for most, but rules are rules. We do have some repeats, which is quite telling.
“If there’s one watch that has caught my eye this year, it’s the Disco Volante from Furlan Marri. A piece that stands out from the crowd. This modern Disco Volante seems to float on the wrist and, as always, the level of finishing from the Geneva-based brand is truly exceptional. The 38mm case houses the ETA Peseux 7001 movement, which has been entirely reworked and decorated. This return to the vintage look and the hand-wound movement make it my favourite watch this year.” Charles Brunet, Mon Petit Horloger
“No easy task, but I’d have to say the Furlan Marri Disco Volante, specifically the Havana dial with the soft mesh bracelet. Excellent proportions, and the perfect balance between design and mechanics for an attractive price point. It talks, without talking too much, and leans right on into the Art Deco Style of the early Disco Volante shape from the ’30s. I would’ve loved to live in this era, so while I wait for them to invent time travel, the watch will do me just fine.” Scarlett Baker, writer and editor
“Though choosing just one is no small feat, I would have to say my favourite novelty of 2024 was none other than Rexhep Rexhepi’s Chronometre Contemporain II with ruby indices. Not only does it showcase one of the most talented watchmakers of our time but it also proves there is indeed a place for diamonds (or, in this case, rubies) on high complications.” J.J. Owens, founder of Daily Grail
“The Hermès Cut, which to me represents a new way of thinking around contemporary women’s watch design. It’s not just a reissue – it’s exciting to see a mechanical (!) watch intentionally designed for women without any of the unnecessary overly femme frills.” Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece
“The Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold is a masterstroke of proportionality and mechanical art, earning its place in conversations among seasoned connoisseurs and a new generation of watch enthusiasts in 2024. Rooted in the ethos of independent watchmaking, it is determined to reach new heights with exquisite guilloché techniques, meticulous hand-decoration inside and out, and an in-house movement, all under the aegis of Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps.” Ash Longet, Watchonista
“My most influential release of 2024 is controversial; the Patek Philippe Cubitus. The collection created a strong, negative reaction when it was revealed, with the market shocked and confused that this design might replace the classic Nautilus. I look at the Cubitus as an unexpected extension of the Nautilus for a younger generation. I’ve had requests from across the globe to source a Cubitus, and its value has already doubled since release. It has certainly made an impact!” Danny Shadid, Luxury Watch Expert, Diamond Watches London
“My choice is the Little Lange 1, the 30 years anniversary edition, platinum case, black Onyx dial. This watch is a myth that has endured for 30 years and whose basic elements are just as influential today as they were 30 years ago: asymmetrical dial design, large date, excellent quality of movement and finish. These basic elements have been imitated by many brands for 30 years. The ‘Anniversary’ is remarkable because it is unchanged, conservative and at the same time an artful extension of the classic Lange 1. The L121.1 movement is identical to the classic Lange 1, but the smaller case size (36.8 mm) is harmonious and perfect for me.”** Thomas Brechtel, watch writer**
“IWC is the overall winner with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This timepiece is nothing short of extraordinary – almost otherworldly. Just think about it: a watch with a calendar precise until the year 3999, limited only by the uncertainty of whether the year 4000 will be a leap year. It’s a marvel of craftsmanship and ingenuity. Absolutely love it!” Kristian Haagen, watch collector and author
“This year, IWC has managed to revolutionise the perpetual calendar. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is one of the first watches to automatically recognise the leap year exceptions in the Gregorian calendar. This is a masterpiece of watchmaking. The model also has a moon phase with a mathematical accuracy of 45 million years. It is not for nothing that the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar was honoured with the GPHG 2024 award.” Christian Schmidt, Mr Nice Watch
“To me the most influential release of 2024 is the Bovet Recital 28 Prowess 1 because it brings out a new complication somehow, it makes world timer finally correct and sharp, making Bovet stand out and brings much more than a simple novelty or re-issue to the industry. If only they made them smaller…” Andrea Casalegno, collector and content creator
“My pick is the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance. The scientific phenomenon behind its complicated movement is out of this world. Not to mention its dimensions made to perfectly hug your wrist. Everything about the design triggers every inch of the watch enthusiast in you. The watchmaker of this timepiece is a Gerald Genta Mad Scientist, in my opinion.” Mike Wüthrich, watch collector
“This year I would unequivocally nominate the Berneron Mirage, shaped by our newfound love of shape-rich watches and riffing off he Cartier Crash with is surrealist art-case. But it has an intense personality of its own, and is apparently fully booked in production for many years, proving that the community’s taste is moving away from ubiquitous steel sports watches.” Thor Svaboe, watch writer
“Nothing embodies the next generation of independent watch brands more than this year’s launch of the Fleming Series 1. When two passionate, young watch collectors join forces, you generally expect the result to be a podcast or maybe a YouTube channel. But Thomas Fleming, who founded the eponymous brand, and photog and instagrammer James Kong, aka @waitlisted, who joined him as COO and Art Director, took things to a whole new level. Neither with any watchmaking chops, they tapped the best of the best to help assemble their limited edition trio of Series 1 watches. Kari Voutilainen’s shop Comblémine created the stunning dials while the movement was developed by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode. The rose gold, platinum and tantalum editions sold out quickly, but a Series 2 is already in the works. Full disclosure: I’m one of the lucky ones to be receiving a rose gold edition Series 1.” Andy Freedman, watch collector
