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When one speaks of watches, there are many styles, types and forms that come to mind. There’s the elegant dress watch, the reliable tool watch, the sporty dive watch, the sleek and stylish pilot’s watch – the list goes on. But amidst this vast landscape, there stands a special type of watch that seamlessly combines form and function, style and substance, and beauty and utility – the ‘Chronograph’.

You must have heard of the various intriguing complications on luxury watches, the chronograph is the most useful and desirable, and for good reason. It not only gives an edgy appearance to the watch and but is also highly practical. 

However, many a times, the chronograph is also one of the most overlooked and misunderstood. Buyers see them as a simple watch with multiple dials and wonder what they do? But, those who’re aware know that a popular mechanical chronograph like a Rolex Daytona sells for nearly three times its retail on the secondary market, simply because of its insane desirability. 

Those unfamiliar with this aspect is surely missing out on a lot..a lot! 

We’re here to discuss everything about the chronograph – the types, how to use it, what makes up a chronograph, the most popular chronographs, everything! In short, consider this as your one-stop guide folks. 

Let’s start with the basic question.

What is a Chronograph Watch?

‘Chrono’ in Greek refers to time and ‘Graph’ means measure. So, the purpose of the chronograph complication is well depicted in its name. 

A chronograph watch is a valuable tool that combines the functionality of a traditional watch with a built-in stopwatch, enabling you to measure both real and elapsed time during an activity. It is commonly used by pilots, athletes and professionals who require precise timing during an activity. 

To those who are new to the realm of watches – chronographs can simply be referred to as a stopwatch that can display the time while also recording it in varying amounts. They have features that enable them to calculate multiple events at once. This versatility makes them highly appealing. 

Simple breakdown of the chronograph function:

Sub-dials: it is a smaller dial located within the main dial of the watch. On a chronograph, the displays on the sub-dials measure different elapsed times. 

A chronograph that comes with two sub-dials (also called bi-compax/twin register). One denotes the seconds counter while the other calculates the minutes. Both the sub-dials come to use when the chronograph is running. In general, bi-compax chronographs record for up to one hour. 

Another type comes with a set of three sub-dials (also called a tri-compax), measuring the hours, minutes and seconds. A tri-compax chronograph models can time up o 12 hours. 

Pushers: there are typically two crowns or buttons on the side of the chronograph watch case. Press one pusher to start the chronograph function, press the second to stop it. And, if there’s a third pusher, it resets the stopwatch to zero. 

Using the pushers in a specific sequence, you can start, stop and reset the chronograph effectively to measure short durations with split-second accuracy. 

The seconds hand of the dial measures the seconds of your chronograph.

What Is The Function Of A Chronograph Watch?

From their early aviation roots to becoming versatile instruments for professionals, athletes and pilots, chronograph watches have come a long way to become one of the most popular watch complications. It can be used for various tasks, including:

• Timing athletic events or races
• Tracking work intervals
• Calculate speed & distance over a distance

Difference Between A Chronograph And Normal Watch

A common question asked by many is the difference between a chronograph watch and a normal watch. Chronograph watches are integrated with special features like stopwatch capability and are easily recognised by pushers and additional dials, whereas traditional watches focus solely on displaying time.

For those who delight complexity or time events frequently, chronographs are the best choice. Others may prefer the subtle elegance of a classic timepiece. So, the choice you make depends entirely on your preference of whether you like complication or simplicity. 

How to Use A Chronograph Watch?

Operating a chronograph function is easy and straightforward when you’re familiar with the pushers. This is how the watch begins:

1. Start the chronograph

In most cases, a chronograph watch comes with two pushers on the right side of the case. Locate and press the top pusher (usually at 2 o’clock) to start the stopwatch function. You’ll see the secondhand of the dial move, indicating the chronograph is running. 

2. Stop the chronograph

Use the same pusher (top) to pause the chronograph when the event ends. 

3. Reset the chronograph

A firm press on the bottom pusher, usually placed at 4 o’clock, will reset the hands to their original position and the chronograph resets to zero. 

4. Read the elapsed time

Chronograph watches display the time measured on a stopwatch differently from the current time of the day. The format varies depending on the movement and design inside. While some chronographs can count only up to 30 minutes, the seconds, minutes and hours are usually read on separate sub-dials. 

For instance, say your watch has a sub-dial at 3 o’clock, displaying the 30-minute counter and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, and you want to time an event for 15 minutes and 20 seconds. The sub-dial at 3 o’clock will show the 15-minutes elapsed minutes while the seconds hand on the dial will show 20-elapsed seconds. 

On the other hand, the seconds hand at 9 o’clock sub-dial will continue to sweep as it measures the time of the day and not the time on the stopwatch. 

Different Types of Chronographs

So far, we’ve discussed the most basic form of a chronograph. But there’s a reason why the chronograph is called one of the most popular complication. It is far more versatile and complex than you might think. Let’s address them all here.

1. Standard or Simple Chronograph

This is by far the simplest, most straightforward and plentiful form of chronograph, comprising two push buttons or pushers, placed on either side of the crown at 2 and 4 o’clock respectively, and two-three sub-dials to display the elapsed hours and minutes. It uses the centre-mounted sweep seconds hand to count the elapsed seconds. 

How it works:

• Press the top button to start the chrono and push it a second time to stop. 
• Next, you can either press the top button for the third time to set the timer off from the same position or press the lower button to reset the chronograph hand to zero. 
• The central chronograph hand moves around in full circles once per second and lets you time events with 1/10th of a second accuracy, enough to meet people’s needs. It remains motionless pointing at 12 o’clock until you start the chronograph.

Iconic names like Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster are standard chronograph watch models. 

2. Mono Pusher Chronograph

As the name suggests, the mono pusher chronograph has only one pusher which is responsible for starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph. This was the very first type of chronograph watch. The advantage of having a mono pusher is a cleaner looking case, while the downside is a diminished performance as all the functions are controlled by a single pusher.

How it works:

• The monopusher is located on either side of the case and usually has its own crown located at the 3 o’clock. 
• This means you can only measure a single time and can’t stop and reset your timer. If you pause the timer you have to reset the chronograph before you start again and it will be starting from 0. 

The popular PaneraiLuminor 1950 8 Days Chrono Monopulsante GMT in ceramic is a mono pusher chronograph. 

3. Fly Back Chronograph

The flyback chronograph is most useful while timing a race or anything that requires laps. It allows you to measure intervals in time with ease. Like a standard chronograph, it has two push buttons but also an additional feature that helps in recording an event with multiple laps.

How it works:

• Press the top button to start and stop the timer, and use the bottom pusher to reset it. 
• The lower button can also be pressed when the chronograph is in action, causing the main hand to reset to zero and immediately start all over again, all with a single push, ensuring you don’t lose any split seconds of the race you’re trying to record. 

One of the finest examples of flyback chronograph is Richard Mille Automatic Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Zone. 

4. Rattrapante or Splits-Seconds Chronograph

A rattrapante or splits-seconds chronograph is a complicated mechanism that helps measure split times. Also, known as doppel-chronograph or a double-split, it requires more moving parts in the watch’s movements and hence, is more expensive also. 

How it works:

• A rattrapante chronograph features three pushers: two located at the 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock positions, and a third situated on the left side of the case at the 10 o’clock position. 
• The third pusher is responsible for controlling the splits-seconds function. 
• These watches also have a second chronograph hand, tucked beneath the main hand, which is not visible to the eyes until needed. 
• The splits-seconds chronograph enables tracking two racers. When a race starts, you press the first pusher. Following this you press the split-second button to stop the upper hand, while the hidden one at the bottom continues to keep the timing. 
• While tracking two racers, you can stop one hand as the winner reaches the final line and the second as the opponent finishes. This allows you to see the difference. 

Breitling’s Duograph Premier showcases the brand’s highest level of watchmaking and is one gloriously elegant watch. 

5. Laptimer Chronograph

This final chronograph is the most complex of all. In fact, the laptimer chronograph is so difficult that it wasn’t until 2015 when Audemars Piguet designed the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher that we saw the world’s first-ever laptimer watch. 

This particular chronograph takes the concept of a split-second chronograph to a new level altogether. It helps in measuring multiple consecutive lap times. In traditional split-second chronograph, pressing the split-second pusher results in stopping of one of the central seconds hand whilst the other hand continues.

How it works:

• When you press the split-second pusher of a laptimer, one of the seconds hands stop and you take note of the completed lap time. 
• At the same time, the other second hand resets to 0 and restarts, so you can immediately start the timing of the second lap. This is like a flyback and split-second chronograph combined in one, making the laptimer chronograph the most versatile and also one of watchmaking’s greatest complications. 

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Limited Michael Schumacher 26568OM.OO.A004CA.01 is truly one of the holy grails in watchmaking. 

Advanced Complications In A Chronograph Watch

Tachymeter 

A Tachymeter chronograph has a scale on the watch dial or bezel, measuring the speed of an object or person over a known distance.  Press the pusher when the object passes the starting point and press the pusher again when the object passes the set distance. The tachymeter scale is rotated to align with the second hand and the position it shows, indicates the speed (kilometers/hour or miles/hour).

Telemeter

The Telemeter chronograph has an interesting theme of measuring the distance between an event that is both audible and visible. For instance, consider lightning and thunder. You start the chronograph once you see the flash of lightning and stop it when you hear the thunder. The telemeter chronograph scale will help determine how far you’re away from the storm. It uses the speed of the sound to determine how far it has travelled since you saw he lightning. 

Pulsometer 

The final one is the Pulsometer designed to help you track a pulse or heart rate. Start this specialised type of chronograph as you begin counting the pulses. Press the pusher once again after counting a specific number of beats as indicated on the scale. The position of the second chronograph hand on the pulsometer scale indicates the heart rate per minute. 

All these three types of variations are seamlessly integrated in the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope. 

Chronograph with date

This combines the normal chronograph function with a date display, ensuring both stopwatch functionality and date window.

Perpetual Calendar

This is another advanced complication that keeps track of the date, accounting for leap years without the need for manual adjustments for decades.  

Most Popular Chronographs 

There have been many popular and desirable chronographs throughout history, each with various purposes. While chronographs were originally designed for divers and pilots, the complication has evolved into becoming a complication suitable for everyday use and you’ll find chronographs in various price ranges, from luxury to affordable. 

Here are the most popular chronographs considered must-haves by collectors and buyers for any watch collection. 

1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex started trying its hands on mechanical chronographs in the 1930s, but it wasn’t until 1963 that the Swiss legend introduced their own collection of chronographs. The legendary ‘Daytona’, initially called the Cosmograph is the king of all chronographs ever. It is a tribute to the famous Daytona International Speedway in Florida.

However, the watch was considered a flop for the first few years of its existence. Nearly, 25 years later, the Daytona became automatic with the Rolex-modified Zenith El Primero movement and in 2000; Rolex finally equipped the Daytona with a fully in-house movement. 

Today, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a highly sought-after timepiece available in a range of metals and colours. The dial showcases three sub-dials – a 60-seconds counter at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock. Sone of the most notable developments in Daytona in recent years includes the addition of Rolex’s Cerachrom ceramic bezel and the specialised Oysterflex rubber bracelet.

2. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

No list of luxury chronographs can ever be complete without the watch that literally was the first to land on the Moon, forget Earth and its atrocities. Introduced in 1957, the Omega Speedmaster achieved its mythical status in 1969 by being NASA’s official timekeeper for its lunar missions. 

The classic Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is housed in a robust 42mm stainless steel case with a matching bracelet and features a tachymeter scale and three chronograph registers, measuring12-hour, 30-minutes and 60-seconds on sub-dials. 

The family of the Speedmaster has grown incessantly since 1957and is available in various forms, from smaller 39mm cases to bigger 44.25mm sizes, and models in ceramic and precious metals. Specifically, the 42mm Speedmaster with a black dial is the most recognisable and therefore, most iconic omega chronograph.

3. Breitling Navitimer Chronograph

Speaking of famous chronographs, the Navitimer from Breitling is definitely going to be there. Released in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer chronograph has been around for almost 72 years now, and is most coveted by pilots and aviation enthusiasts. The watch made its debut when the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association requested Breitling to create a suitable tool watch for its pilots.

The result – a highly functional chronograph with an innovative logarithmic slide rule bezel, now a hallmark of the Navitimer. When the chronograph and the bezel is used together it functions as a wrist-mounted flight computer, enabling pilots to calculate things like average speed, rate of climb or descent and fuel consumption accurately. The dial is where the magic happens. And, while it may appear busy to few, it’s a treat with the beautiful contrasting sub-dials. All we know is that when you see a Breitling Navitimer, the circular slide rule bezel surrounding the sub-dials is the first thing to pop into your eyes and head. 

In short, the Navitimer is Breitling’s flagship model. It has a certain personality and charm, that’s hard to ignore. While Breitling has provided various layouts to the models over the years, its pillar has remained pretty much the same throughout. There are plenty of choices from this instantly-recognisable collection.

4. Tag Heuer Monaco

The first thing that comes to your mind when you think of the Tag Heuer ‘Monaco’ is its unique square case that immediately sets it apart from the pool of round chronograph timepieces. This iconic blued-face watch isn’t exactly easy to pull off, but those who do, collect all the praises in the room.

Tag Heuer released the Monaco chronograph in 1969, which was considered way ahead of its time. The watch achieved its mainstream recognition when Steve McQueen chose to wear the Monaco in his racing movie ‘Le Mans’ in 1971. Despite being on his wrist for a brief cameo, the movie linked the Monaco to motor racing in no time. It was the world’s first water-resistant square-shaped watch. 

Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco still dons the iconic blue dial as sported by McQueen. However, you can find them in various colours, styles and combinations today, including limited editions Monaco in French racing blue or the Tag Heuer Monaco in titanium. 

5. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar

All chronographs we discussed above were sporty, but there’s something inevitably special about a dress chronograph and Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar generously touches this benchmark. This watch is a great way to appreciate what Patek has accomplished in fine watchmaking. This complication has remained in the brand’s catalogue since 1941 and vintage or modern, Patek’s perpetual calendar chronographs are among the most collectable of all wristpieces.

The first Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph model was the Ref. 1518. Over the years, this signature complicated watch underwent various changes to the case, indices, hands and pushers. But, what remained the same is the dial layout. After all, you don’t mess with things you got right the first time. The original model has a beautiful and symmetrical dial layout with the day and month below the 12 o’clock and chronograph and running seconds sub-dial at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The moon phase indicator with date surround is sits well at 6 o’clock. It’s nothing, but perfect!

Final Thoughts

Now you know why chronographs are one of the most sought-after complications. They are rugged, handsome and have different functions and variations, appealing to a wide spectrum of audience and buyers.