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Out of the 60 brands exhibiting at Watches and Wonders 2025, only a small handful is capable of bringing something new to the jewelry watches table. These maisons bring something completely different to the industry as they tap into their goldsmithing and gem-setting skills. Over the past few editions of Watches and Wonders, they have also demonstrated immense creativity and audacity in design. Leading names in the field of jewelry watches undoubtedly include the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels as well as Piaget.

Jewelry Watches Overview

One of the rising big stars in this space is definitely Chanel. After its spectacular Couture themed collection last year this year the French maison followed up with a massive spread of fun and irreverent pieces all inspired by its favorite motifs. Chanel customers will certainly have a field day with these designs.

Every piece in the new collection expresses a distinctive Chanel identity while embracing the core tenets of watch and jewelry making. If you love them, great. If they’re not for you, that’s fine. Altogether, the creations send a strong message that everything you see goes back to a part of Chanel’s unique identity as a luxury maison. And that is super important to the maison across all its divisions.

Likewise, Hermès did well to leverage its position as a luxury maison in crafting its 2025 novelties. Over the years the maison’s timepieces showcase a strong and unique identity where craftsmanship and whimsicality intertwine. What this serves to achieve is a message that haute horlogerie can always be fun, artful and surprising.

Which was exactly what Hermès delivered with the Maillon Libre collection. It is at once recognizable, memorable and desirable — arguably three key values luxury products should always encompass. More importantly, such a collection could only be conceived by a maison like Hermès who has never allowed watchmaking traditions to limit its capacity for creativity.

Then of course we have the major jewelry houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget and Chopard. These are the leaders of the industry and continue to do so this year by focusing on their strengths.

Cartier introduced the Tressage motif to its jewelry watches while releasing new interpretations of Panthere models. Van Cleef & Arpels revisited two classic favorites, the Ruban and the Cadenas. And Piaget hit a homerun with a gorgeous spread of cuff, pendant and bracelet watches emphasizing its distinctive goldsmithing and ornamental stones savoir-faire.

Chanel Première Galon

Bangle watches were huge between the 70s and 80s but somehow were all but forgotten since the turn of the century. Thankfully they have come back to the spotlight since Cartier presented the Baignoire Mini bangle watch two years ago and everyone is the richer for it.

Consider Chanel’s take on this burgeoning jewelry watch trend. It is a supremely elegant take on its classic Première watch which was the maison’s very first timepiece. In 2023 Chanel paid homage to the 1987 model with the refreshed Première Édition Originale. Obviously the fashion world went wild and now the maison looks set to repeat its success with the Première Galon.

This time, the signature double chain bracelet is replaced with a solid 18K gold braided gold cuff. From a jewelry perspective it is reminiscent of the classic French spiral motif often seen in vintage designs. And from a fashion perspective, Chanel lovers are instantly reminded of the braided trims that Gabrielle Chanel loves to apply to her suits, either in matching or contrasting colors. These braided trims serve to decorate the garment as well as to structure the silhouette which as we all know means the world to the Mademoiselle.

As much a timepiece as it is a jewelry piece, the Première Galon arrives in three yellow gold variations. Non-gem-set, partial gem-set and fully gem-set.

Chanel Lion of Mademoiselle Necklace Watch Double Lion Buttons

Sautoir necklaces don’t get more glamorous than this. The Chanel Lion of Mademoiselle Necklace Watch Double Lion Buttons looks like it was designed for Gabrielle Chanel herself. Its black and gold color palette is not only familiar but comforting to Chanel lovers.

Here it is rendered as a three-row chain draping seductively from the neck, with two button motifs providing perfect symmetry. Featuring a sculptural lion head in yellow gold, the black onyx plates swivel open to reveal a watch dial on one side and a locket on the other, which allows you to place a hidden photograph — what a fantastic idea! This baroque-inspired necklace took the Chanel artisans a total of 200 hours to craft.

Chanel Lion of Mademoiselle Toi & Moi Ring Watch

Ring watches are probably the rarest interpretations of jewelry watches and one can easily see why. It is definitely not easy squeezing a dial into an object that is small enough and light enough to sit on the finger, while displaying the time legibly. Feels like a big ask but going by how regularly Chanel creates ring watches, one is almost deceived by how complex it is to design these fabulous things.

This year’s creation is one for the books. The Lion of Mademoiselle Toi & Moi Ring Watch is a magnificent piece designed to dominate with its staggering presence. Featuring two lions sculpted like caryatids, it is wonderfully three-dimensional and tremendously breath-taking from all angles.

Crafted in 18K yellow gold, the piece is accentuated with brilliant cut diamonds around the lions’ manes and also the ring shank while baguette cut diamonds are paved all over the dial with its C-shaped bezel. Finally, two princess-cut diamonds complete the piece as they sit astride the dial.

Chanel Necklace Watches

Necklace watches have been making a regular appearance in Chanel’s timepiece collection each year and 2025 is no exception. In fact one could say it is a bumper year for the maison in this category, and why not? The Chanel Watch Creation Studio definitely had loads of fun designing the pieces.

But first let’s start with something more familiar, the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Camelia Necklace Watch. Everything about it spells Gabrielle Chanel, from the yellow gold chain with diamond pom-poms to the dazzling button motif featuring a camelia crafted in mother-of-pearl. At its heart is a single 0.50 carat brilliant cut diamond. Slide the button motif aside to reveal a rich black lacquered dial encircled by brilliant cut diamonds.

From her style to her suits and now her person, Coco Chanel inspires all and every timepiece creation of the maison. The Mademoiselle has made numerous cameo appearances across the various collections. This year’s Necklace Watch Coco Black Jacket is Chanel once again taking a tongue-in-cheek approach to watch and jewelry design.

Adorably fashioned from 18K white gold and black lacquer, the Mademoiselle figure is set with 163 brilliant cut diamonds and it conceals a black lacquered dial. She is wearing a little black boater hat adorned with a diamond ribbon, altogether harmoniously in black and white — Chanel’s favorite color combination and the absolute perfect duo according to Gabrielle Chanel.

Chanel J12 Blush

Here’s where everything goes bonkers for real. As part of its new Blush capsule collection, Chanel created three ultra-chic necklace watches inspired by its beauty division. The Chanel Watch Creation Studio has often borrowed design codes from its fashion universe but this is the first time its beauty business has come to inspire an haute horlogerie collection in such a significant way.

The Secret Watch “Kiss Me” transforms a lipstick into a timepiece, an homage to the iconic Chanel lipstick introduced in 1954. Made of glossy black titanium, the curved square tube conceals a precious black lacquered dial juxtaposed with yellow gold set with vibrant yellow beryls. Slide the case open to reveal the time and wear this sensuous creation on a yellow gold chain, accented with mini onyx tubes and rhodolite beads and adorned with a central 0.70 carat diamond. 5 piece limited edition.

The Chanel Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow palette adorably lends its distinctive design to this pendant sumptuously crafted in onyx to evoke the glossy black case of the blush. Like a precious talisman that tells the time, it features an abstract Byzantine motif dear to Chanel and expressed with a quartet of cherry-red rubellite cabochons plus five pink tourmalines.

Turn it over and it gives the time via a yellow gold dial fully paved with brilliant cut diamonds. Worn on a yellow gold chain studded with onyx and diamonds, the Talisman Watch “Give Me Luck” would certainly be appreciated by Gabrielle Chanel who famously loves talismans and good luck charms of all kinds — especially the precious ones. 5 piece limited edition.

Jewelry has long been worn as amulets to bestow protective powers, and the Chanel Amulet Watch “Protect Me” takes evil eye jewelry to the next level. Because here you have the very eye of none other than Gabrielle Chanel herself. Depicted on a bed of brilliant cut white, beige and fancy brown diamonds, the artwork which took two months to complete was done exclusively for Chanel by Les Cadraniers de Genève.

Selection of the gemstones took five months to achieve the specific palette of color tones. The case in black-coated titanium and 18K yellow gold reveals a diamond-paved dial on the reverse side, altogether worn on a chain made of yellow gold, diamonds and onyx. Unique piece.

Piaget Essentia

Many jewelry watch lovers will agree that the 70s were a fabulous era for Piaget jewelry and timepieces. Spearheaded by Yves Piaget who envisioned a bold expression of Piaget designs, the collections were as varied as they were audacious.

Naturally, the maison’s immense goldsmithing and gemstone expertise stole the spotlight over and over, establishing its unique identity in the high jewelry and high watchmaking arena. For a time, however, this exuberance was somewhat diminished as luxury trends ebbed and flowed but jewelry aficionados never lost touch with that glorious chapter in Piaget history.

Which is why the maison’s recent collections have so deeply enraptured its clientele. Because once again, we see the Golden Age of Piaget jewelry watches returning to the fore, reclaiming their highly overdue time in the sun. The new Piaget Essentia cuff watch stands far apart from all other jewelry watches with its exquisitely asymmetrical case and bracelet design.

It immediately brings to mind the glorious 70s audacity in design and even has a little Dali-esque, melting clocks quality to it. Each chain is unique and set with diamonds, emphasizing Piaget’s goldsmithing and chain-making expertise established since the 1960s.

At the moment the watch is offered in pink gold with three types of hardstone options — malachite, opal and turquoise — complete with brilliant cut diamonds in varying sizes encircling the dial.

Piaget Necklace Watches

Necklaces watches were a major trend last year with Piaget leading the charge. And rightly so, because Piaget has always sat at the crossroads where watches and jewelry intersect. This year the maison presented a very lovely piece featuring Tiger Eye alternating with pavé diamonds on a fabulous braided gold chain.

Additionally, the collection includes a beautiful piece featuring white opal against brilliant cut diamonds, again all brought together with braided pink gold, with gold and diamond tassels for an extra touch of luxe.

Finally, as colored stones are very much a part of Piaget’s core DNA, the maison has also done a transformable jewelry watch that can be worn as a wristwatch, a pendant watch or simply as a sautoir necklace.

Piaget Cuff Watches

One product category that desperately needs to be talked about more is the Cuff Watches by Piaget. These creations are almost ludicrously fantastical. Piaget has done some truly amazing works of jewelry art back in the day, numerous cuff watches which any jewelry lover should pick up if they ever show up at auctions. Splendid gold and hardstone combinations and utterly unique goldsmithing techniques.

So it is indeed wonderful to see them returning to the spotlight again. This year welcomed two new additions both offering marvellous plays on gold texture, organic lines and color juxtapositions.

Hermes Maillon Libre

Finally, a jewelry watch that is unequivocally and unapologetically modern. Because of the nature of gemstones and goldsmithing, jewelry watches often stay close to their Art Nouveau roots. That is all well and good. But it also means that whenever brands take a completely different approach to this genre, suddenly it’s like a welcome breath of fresh air.

This is precisely what Hermès has done with the Maillon Libre. Its fluid lines and contemporary architecture finds perfect synergy with bezel set colored gemstones and a combination of baguette and brilliant cut gemstones in overlapping loops. The geometric aesthetic is instantly palpable and the resulting effect is 1000% Hermès.

But there’s more. Hermès thought far out of the box with this one, giving us more than one way to perceive the Maillon Libre. It is a wristwatch, yes, but there is also the brooch which is all kinds of amazing. Somewhat reminiscent of a jabot pin that’s been updated for the 21^st century, we can see Hermès high jewelry influences all over it. You could wear it as a brooch or a pendant watch — quelle surprise! Whether it’s in the magnified form or the choice of gemstones, there is no doubt this is the watch that fashion influencers will be dreaming of night and day.

Cartier Tressage

One of the tell-tale signs of French jewelry making savoir-faire is when you begin to experience a trompe d’oeil effect. Diamonds that remind you of water, gem-setting that feels completely fabric-like, or sculptured gold that looks almost soft and pliant. With the new Tressage watch, Cartier has shown beyond any and all doubt why it is the world’s number one jewelry maison. Volumes are played up to the maximum, with gold and diamonds twisting and swirling against each other seemingly in contrast but pairing so perfectly together.

The case is completely amplified almost appearing to swallow up the dial, rectangular and elongated and fully snow-set with diamonds. Four variations of the Cartier Tressage have been presented. Two yellow gold models, one without diamonds and one partially set. Two white gold models both fully set with either exclusively diamonds or a combination of diamonds and blue sapphires.

Panthère de Cartier

Seeing this watch for the first time, it’s a little like that moment you first laid eyes on the Cartier Crash Tigre because there is so much going on. But very quickly you realize that the new high jewelry Panthère de Cartier is a completely different animal. Certainly it delivers the goods as far as gem-setting finesse and design audacity are concerned, and undoubtedly it was conceived for the extroverts among us who have the right personality or wardrobe to pull off.

Its abstract dial is entirely covered with stripes realized in black lacquer and brilliant cut diamonds. What kind of stripes? Cartier doesn’t say. Not that it matters anyway since the Cartier menagerie is huge and ever-growing. The rest of the timepiece is fleshed out with more diamonds and brilliant cut spessartites in shades of yellow and red, completed with lashings of black and golden-brown lacquer.

Panthère Jewellery Watch

Cartier’s expertise and time-honored savoir-faire with panther themed jewelry is quite simply the stuff of dreams. Over and over again the maison wows us with ever more fantastical interpretations of this majestic big cat in all its creations, from jewelry and watches to home objects and handbags. Its growing collection of panther jewelry watches skilfully capture the dynamism, power and allure of Cartier’s favorite animal.

This is evident once again in the new Panthère Jewellery Watch, offered in yellow gold with black lacquer spots or white gold with full diamond pave and onyx spots. Unquestionably, this is no longer just a timepiece but a work of high jewelry that includes the time.

Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna

Across the decades since its birth the Bvlgari Serpenti has taken on countless guises — such is the inimitable versatility and timeless appeal of this magnificent icon. And every metamorphosis brings something entirely new to the Serpenti family while staying true to its origin story. The new Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna is a most abstract take on the Serpenti yet as the maison’s creative department explores this classic favorite by reducing it to its bare essentials.

“Only a few strokes were needed to sketch Aeterna. The serpent is distilled to its essence, its own dynamic, refined to its most powerful form… with visionary modernity,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director of Bvlgari. This novelty piece made its debut across two variations. Pink gold with snow-set diamonds and white gold entirely set with diamonds including the edges of the bangle, plus a brilliant cut emerald set into the crown.

Chopard L’Heure du Diamant

It’s probably one of jewelry watchmaking’s greatest injustices but the Chopard L’Heure du Diamant has been slept on for far too long. Thankfully with watch trends moving decidedly back to smaller sizes, we might finally be able to see this beautiful timepiece get its due recognition. Particularly as Chopard has also introduced this year’s bevy of 12 new variations all powered by the in-house mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre 10.01-C.

Retaining its adorably diminutive size of 26mm, this year’s collection returns to the classic round case with bezel framed with a circlet of diamonds. What’s also extra cool is the maison’s use of ornamental stones for the dial, resulting in a suite of 12 different stones and colors. They include every popular hardstone variety you can think of. From mother-of-pearl to malachite, from onyx to Tiger’s Eye, from carnelian to jade, and more.

There are several different options for strap type and color, as well as one ultra elegant white gold bracelet finished with a unique texture known at Chopard as the bark-type bracelet.

Van Cleef & Arpels Ruban Mystérieux

Here’s why Van Cleef & Arpels always has the final word in haute joaillerie creation. This maison knows jewelry like no one else knows jewelry and can always be counted on to raise the bar in jewelry watchmaking. The Ruban Mystérieux watch is a fantastic example of everything that Van Cleef & Arpels stands for. In this gorgeous jewelry timepiece, you have a tasteful juxtaposition of two time-honored setting techniques, both of which the maison has deftly mastered.

The first is snow-setting which is where round cut gemstones of varying sizes are set all over the gold but fully covering the entire surface. This transmits an organic, irregular aesthetic resembling freshly fallen snow. The second is none other than the maison’s signature Mystery Set technique, defined by neat, uniform rows of square or baguette-cut stones and absolutely no visible prongs.

All that’s left is the striking contrast between the freeform colorless diamonds on one side and rigid geometry of deeply saturated green and blue stones on the other. As the French would say it is simply “à tomber par terre.” And the final hurrah — yes there is more — a dazzling 3.72 carat oval-cut DIF diamond set atop the dial. So when we say Van Cleef & Arpels knows jewelry watchmaking, we mean it really knows jewelry watchmaking.

Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas

A consistent favorite at Van Cleef & Arpels, the Cadenas watch is instantly recognisable with its three-dimensional architecture inspired by a padlock. Around it, the clasp of a double snake chain slides fluidly, following the curve of the wrist with flexibility. This year’s rendition combines a yellow gold bracelet with a case paved with snow-set diamonds, further enhanced by delicate rows of princess- and square-cut blue sapphires.